Mexican Fish Tacos in Panama

I have a confession: cooking fish is not my strong point. The first time I ever tried to cook fish I was in college. I baked it. It came out as white fish leather. Since then I have always been a little leery -- it is definitely not something I would choose to make for anyone I wanted to impress...or even anyone I ever wanted to see again.
However, I have just moved to Panama. I am living on an island. Frequently, local fishermen stop by and offer their freshly-caught wares for $1 a pound. Considering that it costs me at least $10 in gas to get to the mainland, why would I say no to fish that is fresh, and delivered to the dock?

Fresh fish, delivered right to the dock? Why would I say no?

My second problem with fish? Fileting the suckers. Anyone who knows anything about fish would either laugh or cry at the butchery I perform when trying to filet a fish by myself. Yes, I know how to do it; no, I have not done it enough to do it well.
There's good news, however: fish tacos are the perfect vehicle for badly fileted fish. No, it's not an excuse, but until I gain some skill, why not eat something that I love anyway? Thankfully, I have yet to make fish leather with fish tacos. The breading keeps the fish from drying out.

 

See? You can't even tell they were badly fileted.

El Vaquero Tijuana Baja Fish Tacos

Prep time: 30 minutes

Set time: 1-2 hours (optional)

Cook time: 25 minutes

Serves 6-8

Beer Batter

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup dark Mexican beer (Negra Modelo)

Salsa Roja

2 medium size chiles anchos (dried poblano peppers)

2 cups water

1 tablespoon oil

Dash salt

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup Mexican crema (crème fraiche) or sour cream

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/4 cup finely diced dill pickle

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pico de Gallo

2 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced

1/4 head of cabbage, finely chopped

4 green onions, thinly sliced

1 jalapeño, finely chopped (optional)

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup tomato sauce

1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped

Fish Tacos

Oil, for frying

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning

2 pounds skinned Halibut, Cod or other white fish, cut into 1/2-inch strips

Freshly ground black pepper

Yellow corn tortillas (do not use white corn or flour tortillas!)

Pickled jalapeños for garnish (optional)

Salsa Roja

Place the chiles in a saucepan on medium heat. Add a tablespoon of oil and lightly toast the chiles for 10-15 seconds on each side or until they change color, whichever happens first. Do not burn. Let the oil in the pan cool for about 5 minutes. Put the chiles back in the same saucepan, add water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let sit until softened; about 5 minutes. Grind chiles in a blender until pureed. Add some of the soaking liquid – about half a cup — to facilitate blending and to dilute the salsa to a medium-thick consistency. Add salt to bring out the flavors. Let salsa roja cool in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes.

Mix mayonnaise, crema and pickles in a medium bowl. Whisk in the lemon zest, lemon juice and water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the chile mixture once it has cooled and whisk. For best results, make the sauce at least 1-2 hours ahead of time and keep it in the refrigerator until you’re ready to serve the fish tacos.

For better taste and consistency, do not use an electric whisk.

Pico de Gallo

Combine ingredients in a bowl; add salt and pepper to taste. Makes 2 cups.

 

Beer Batter

Mix the flour, salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the beer. Set aside and let the batter rest for 15 minutes before using.

Fish

Over medium heat, add enough oil to a large skillet to reach a depth of 1 inch. Heat the oil until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350°F, or until a drop of water dances and sizzles on the oil’s surface.

On a large plate, combine the flour and salt. Season the fish pieces all over with salt and pepper and coat with the flour. Working in batches, dip the fillets in the beer batter, coating both sides. Fry in the hot oil until golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Place on paper towels to drain.

For a nice semi-crispy tortilla, warm the yellow corn tortillas in a dry pan over a gas burner or grill until golden brown on both sides. Prepare tacos by filling the tortillas with fish and topping each with the salsa roja cream sauce, pico de gallo and fresh lime juice.

Recipe Tip

For best results, make the Pico de Gallo and Salsa Roja 1-2 hours ahead of time so the flavors can blend.

Contributed to Savoring Chelan: Pairing Local Wines with Regional Recipes by JC deVivero of El Vaquero Mexican Restaurant.

Try fish tacos with these local Chelan Valley wines:

Karma Vineyards Chardonnay

Nefarious Cellars Riesling Stone’s Throw Vineyard Estate Grown