Mexican Fish Tacos in Panama

I have a confession: cooking fish is not my strong point. The first time I ever tried to cook fish I was in college. I baked it. It came out as white fish leather. Since then I have always been a little leery -- it is definitely not something I would choose to make for anyone I wanted to impress...or even anyone I ever wanted to see again.
However, I have just moved to Panama. I am living on an island. Frequently, local fishermen stop by and offer their freshly-caught wares for $1 a pound. Considering that it costs me at least $10 in gas to get to the mainland, why would I say no to fish that is fresh, and delivered to the dock?

Fresh fish, delivered right to the dock? Why would I say no?

My second problem with fish? Fileting the suckers. Anyone who knows anything about fish would either laugh or cry at the butchery I perform when trying to filet a fish by myself. Yes, I know how to do it; no, I have not done it enough to do it well.
There's good news, however: fish tacos are the perfect vehicle for badly fileted fish. No, it's not an excuse, but until I gain some skill, why not eat something that I love anyway? Thankfully, I have yet to make fish leather with fish tacos. The breading keeps the fish from drying out.

 

See? You can't even tell they were badly fileted.

El Vaquero Tijuana Baja Fish Tacos

Prep time: 30 minutes

Set time: 1-2 hours (optional)

Cook time: 25 minutes

Serves 6-8

Beer Batter

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup dark Mexican beer (Negra Modelo)

Salsa Roja

2 medium size chiles anchos (dried poblano peppers)

2 cups water

1 tablespoon oil

Dash salt

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup Mexican crema (crème fraiche) or sour cream

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/4 cup finely diced dill pickle

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pico de Gallo

2 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced

1/4 head of cabbage, finely chopped

4 green onions, thinly sliced

1 jalapeño, finely chopped (optional)

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup tomato sauce

1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped

Fish Tacos

Oil, for frying

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning

2 pounds skinned Halibut, Cod or other white fish, cut into 1/2-inch strips

Freshly ground black pepper

Yellow corn tortillas (do not use white corn or flour tortillas!)

Pickled jalapeños for garnish (optional)

Salsa Roja

Place the chiles in a saucepan on medium heat. Add a tablespoon of oil and lightly toast the chiles for 10-15 seconds on each side or until they change color, whichever happens first. Do not burn. Let the oil in the pan cool for about 5 minutes. Put the chiles back in the same saucepan, add water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let sit until softened; about 5 minutes. Grind chiles in a blender until pureed. Add some of the soaking liquid – about half a cup — to facilitate blending and to dilute the salsa to a medium-thick consistency. Add salt to bring out the flavors. Let salsa roja cool in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes.

Mix mayonnaise, crema and pickles in a medium bowl. Whisk in the lemon zest, lemon juice and water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the chile mixture once it has cooled and whisk. For best results, make the sauce at least 1-2 hours ahead of time and keep it in the refrigerator until you’re ready to serve the fish tacos.

For better taste and consistency, do not use an electric whisk.

Pico de Gallo

Combine ingredients in a bowl; add salt and pepper to taste. Makes 2 cups.

 

Beer Batter

Mix the flour, salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the beer. Set aside and let the batter rest for 15 minutes before using.

Fish

Over medium heat, add enough oil to a large skillet to reach a depth of 1 inch. Heat the oil until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350°F, or until a drop of water dances and sizzles on the oil’s surface.

On a large plate, combine the flour and salt. Season the fish pieces all over with salt and pepper and coat with the flour. Working in batches, dip the fillets in the beer batter, coating both sides. Fry in the hot oil until golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Place on paper towels to drain.

For a nice semi-crispy tortilla, warm the yellow corn tortillas in a dry pan over a gas burner or grill until golden brown on both sides. Prepare tacos by filling the tortillas with fish and topping each with the salsa roja cream sauce, pico de gallo and fresh lime juice.

Recipe Tip

For best results, make the Pico de Gallo and Salsa Roja 1-2 hours ahead of time so the flavors can blend.

Contributed to Savoring Chelan: Pairing Local Wines with Regional Recipes by JC deVivero of El Vaquero Mexican Restaurant.

Try fish tacos with these local Chelan Valley wines:

Karma Vineyards Chardonnay

Nefarious Cellars Riesling Stone’s Throw Vineyard Estate Grown

Broiled Columbia River Wild Chinook Salmon

Photo by Richard Uhlhorn

AUTHOR'S NOTE: It's fishing season in North Central Washington! I'm celebrating with a month of salmon recipes. For more information on fishing regulations for your area, go to http://wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/regulations/. - Morgan

 "This recipe has been a family favorite for more than 30 years. I’ve tried other barbecued and baked salmon recipes over the years, but always come back to this one. It’s one of the most requested fish recipes in our family and is now being passed along to a third generation" - John Little, Rio Vista Wines

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Marinating time: 30-90 minutes

Cook Time: 10 minutes per inch of thickness

Serves 4-6

About 4 pounds 1 to 1-1/2 inch thick fillet of Columbia River salmon

Marinade

Soy sauce, about 1/4 cup

Lemon pepper, added after fish is marinated

Basting Sauce

1/2 cup soy sauce

1 cube butter

Sprinkle a generous amount of soy sauce on the flesh side of fillet. Add additional soy sauce as it is absorbed. Marinate in the refrigerator for 30-90 minutes. If short of time, make fork holes in the flesh to aid absorption.

Remove the marinated fillet from the refrigerator, place on broiling pan and sprinkle liberally with lemon pepper.

To make the basting sauce, melt a cube of butter in a small saucepan or in the microwave and blend 50/50 with soy sauce until smooth. Baste the salmon on the meat side with the blended sauce and then broil, skin side down, about 4 inches from the top oven element. A good rule for cooking fish is 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Check the fish every 2 to 3 minutes and continue to baste. A brown, bubbly crust will form. DO NOT OVERCOOK! When it can be easily flaked with a fork, it’s done.

Recipe Tips

• Substitute Columbia River salmon with Lake Chelan Lake trout, Rufus Woods Triploid trout, or Columbia River Steelhead.
• The season for Columbia River Chinook salmon opens in July. (For more information, go to http://wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/regulations/)
• Contact local fishing guides if you need help catching one of these beauties.
• Visit Rio Vista and try our fantastic Columbia River smoked salmon and smoked cheese.

Contributed to Savoring Chelan: Pairing Local Wines with Regional Recipes by John Little, co-owner and winemaker at Rio Vista Wines.

Wine Pairing Suggestions:

Rio Vista Estate Chardonnay*

Rio Vista’s Loony Red (Yes, we recommend a red wine with this fish.)*

Lake Chelan Winery Pinot Noir Rosé

Fruit Salsa Salad

I know, I know: I keep posting salad recipes that include ingredients that aren't in season. The problem is that I'm CRAVING a bunch of vegetables (and fruit), so all I can think about is making some delicious dishes that include them. This one is from the Culinary Apple, Chelan's fantastic kitchen -- and everything apple -- store. They also have some of the best fudge around. Anyway, tuck this one away for a hot summer day, or make it with what you can find at the grocery store.


Fruit Salsa Salad

Contributed to Savoring Chelan: Pairing Local Wines with Regional Recipes by Mary Weldy, co-owner of the Culinary Apple.

Prep time: 30 minutes
Serves 6

Fruit Salsa
1/2 cup chopped sweet onion
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
2 medium diced Fuji apples
2 cups blueberries
1 fresh orange, peeled, sectioned and cut into small pieces

Dressing
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons apple juice
1/3 cup red wine vinegar

Garnish
1 1/4 cups mixed baby salad greens
1/2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

Gently stir all fruit salsa ingredients together.
Whisk dressing ingredients together, pour over the salad and let stand for 10 minutes.
Divide the greens onto 6 chilled plates, spoon fruit salsa over salad greens and top with cheese.

Wine Pairing Suggestions:
CR Sandidge Winery KISS Chardonnay Gewürtzraminer Blend
Karma Vineyards Methode Champenoise
Wapato Point Cellars Riesling

Long Beach Clam Chowder

It's about that time...time to start eating warm, filling soups that will help sustain you through the winter months. This recipe was contributed to Savoring Chelan by Jean Haskell of Antoine Creek Vineyards in Chelan and will do just that. 

This is a clam chowder recipe that we made with Razor clams from the Washington Coast when we had John and Jan Little of Rio Vista Wines for dinner. It goes well with their white wines that use our grapes.

Prep time: 45 minutes
Cook time: 20 minutes
Serves 10-12

1/2 pound diced slab bacon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large onions, peeled and diced
1/4 cup flour
2 cups clam broth, or 2 jars (2 cups) clam nectar
4 pounds diced potatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
Ground pepper
24-32 cleaned Razor clams, coarsely chopped
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream or whipping cream
3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Cook bacon in soup pot over low heat until wilted and slightly browned. Add butter and onions; cook until onions turn clear. Add flour and cook another 5 minutes. Add the broth, potatoes, thyme, and pepper. Simmer until potatoes can be easily pierced with fork but are still firm, adding more water as needed for preferred consistency (up to 2 cups).
Add the clams and bring the mixture back to a simmer. Add the milk and cream. Stir constantly over very low heat until the soup is hot but not boiling; if it boils the soup will curdle. Serve immediately, topped with fresh parsley.

Local wine pairing suggestions:
Rio Vista Viognier (Antoine Creek Vineyards)*
Hard Row to Hoe Primitivo
Tsillan Cellars Estate Pinot Grigio

Easy Minestrone Soup

They say the first hard frost will be tonight...there's nothing like the hearty minestrone soup Jan Little from Rio Vista Wines contributed to Savoring Chelan to ward off the pending winter chill.

"This easy soup is just bursting with the flavor of fresh vegetables, which can be varied depending on what is seasonally available. If time allows, substitute fresh veggies for canned. My 11 grandchildren clamor for me to make this. What better way for them to get their vegetables?" ~ Jan Little, Rio Vista Winery

Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Serves 12

2 pounds ground beef
1 large onion (about 1 cup), chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 can (28 oz.) whole tomatoes
1 can (15 oz.) kidney beans
1 can (12 oz.) whole-kernel corn
2 stalks celery (about 1 cup), sliced
2 cups shredded cabbage     (about 1/4 head)
2 small zucchini (about 2 cups), sliced
1/2 cup uncooked elbow macaroni or broken spaghetti
3 cups water
1/2 cup red wine or water
2 teaspoons instant beef bouillon
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
3-1/2 teaspoons Italian seasoning
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for topping

Cook and stir ground beef, onion and garlic in Dutch oven or skillet until beef is light brown; drain. Stir in tomatoes (with liquid), kidney beans (with liquid) and remaining ingredients; break up tomatoes with fork.
Heat to boiling; reduce to medium heat. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until macaroni and vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
Serve in large soup bowls topped with grated Parmesan cheese with the breadstick recipe below.


Recipe Tips
After browning beef, stir in all ingredients except macaroni, cover and refrigerate. 20 minutes before serving, add macaroni and continue cooking.
Substitute any fresh or favorite vegetables that are in season, such as asparagus or carrots.
To make breadsticks to go with the soup, cut a loaf of French bread in half, then into 4-inch long pieces. Cut each piece into 3 sticks. Brush cut sides with melted butter and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake sticks on ungreased pan at 450˚F until golden brown, about 8 minutes.         Makes 30 bread sticks.

Karma Vineyards Green Goddess Dressing

I just recently moved to Wenatchee, and my house is literally 3 blocks from the Columbia Street Farmer's Markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays. On those mornings, I simply throw on some flip flops, grab a bag and go wander amongst the vendors. I inevitably come back with more than I could possibly eat before the next market day, but I can't help it.
Thankfully I eat whole meals of vegetables, and my juicer and blender have been busy. As much as I eat vegetables year-round, however, I am not usually a fan of salads -- I like my veggies sauteed, mostly with just garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper. The only time this changes is in the summer, when the fresh salad greens are out. When it's fresh, I want it raw, and Karma's dressing -- packed with fresh pungent herbs -- is just the way to compliment the fresh flavors.

Prep time: 15 minutes
Serves 8

1/4 cup Greek yogurt or plain yogurt
2 cups mayonnaise
1/4 cup fresh parsley
1/4 cup fresh thyme
1/4 cup fresh tarragon
1/4 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
1/2 tablespoon raw sugar
2 shallots, peeled and chopped in half
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
 
Put all ingredients in blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Serve over your favorite salad greens. The dressing will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.

Recipe tip: If substituting dried herbs for fresh, use 1/3 as much.

Try pairing your salad with Karma Vineyards Estate Gewürztraminer or their Methode Champenoise.

Contributed to Savoring Chelan: Pairing Local Wines with Regional Recipes by Amilee Cappell Olson for Karma Kafé.
Note: Karma Kafé at Karma Vineyards is now 18 Brix Restaurant, under the direction of Executive Chef Brant Jones. You can visit Amilee Cappell Olson at the Red Apple Market in Chelan.

My Last Meal: Caribbean Pork Tenderloin, Amongst 8 Other Courses

The news has been overtaken the last couple days with The Rapture: the idea that the world is going to end at 6 p.m. EST on today, May 21. According to the theory, the estimate is based on calculations from the Bible, and it will start with a series of earthquakes that will systematically destroy the earth. Believers will be whisked away to heaven, but non-believers will be left behind for an additional five months of torturous living before the world implodes on October 21. Or so they say.
Someone asked me what I would do differently if it WERE the last day of my existence, and honestly there's not much I would change...except what I eat.
My last meal would be so huge, I would be in a food coma by the time the first earthquakes hit. Since I love food and wine, this should not surprise you. The more I thought about it, though, the more food I realized I want to eat again if the end is nigh.
It's a long list and includes many courses. I'd start out with chipotle butternut squash soup -- a new concoction of mine I came up with last year -- followed by about 4 main courses. My mom's prime rib is definitely on the top of the list (it's smothered in kosher salt and baked until the outside is a fatty, crusty goodness that makes your mouth water and your hands swell from the sodium content) and Kaspressknödel, a fried German potato pancake-type delicacy with three different types of cheese in it. Creme brulee would also be on my list, plus some good tequila and a Piña Colada.
But since I also have room for additional main courses -- it's my last day on earth, why not? -- I have to admit I would also want some Caribbean Pork Tenderloin.
It's hard to say, but here I go: it's my favorite recipe in Savoring Chelan. There's something about the stacks of marinated pork tenderloin topped with apple and sweet potato sauteed in butter and cinnamon that makes my mouth water every time I think about it.
That's not to say I would include a couple more of the recipes from the book if I had a last week to survive before the stores were looted, (can you say Fire Pasta and Chocolate Truffles?) but since I'm coming onto the rapture party a little late in the day, this is the one that makes the cut.

Caribbean Pork Tenderloin

Contributed by Ray Sandidge, winemaker for C.R. Sandidge Wines.

Prep time: 20 minutes
Marinade time: 1-2 hours
Cook time: 10 minutes
Serves 4

Two whole pork tenderloins

Marinade
1/2 white onion, chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1/2 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
2 teaspoons ginger powder
1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons soy sauce
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar

Sauté items
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons brown sugar
2 whole apples, cored and cut into rounds (4 rounds per serving)
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into rounds (4 rounds per serving)

Garnish
Fresh chopped cilantro
Chopped pecans
Olive oil
Chopped green onion

Mix marinade items in a large glass or stainless steel mixing bowl. Cut pork tenderloins into 1 to 1-1/2 inch medallions and toss pork in the marinade until well coated. Refrigerate, covered, for 1 to 2 hours.
Remove pork medallions from marinade and grill 8 to 10 minutes, turning once. Sauté the apple and sweet potato slices in the butter with the brown sugar until lightly browned and softened.
Alternating sweet potato, pork, apple, sweet potato, pork and apple, make two stacks on the plate; you may need toothpicks. Garnish with cilantro, pecans, olive oil, green onion and serve with salad greens. Serve hot.